A Tourist in Antarctica: Witnessing its Wonders and Warnings for a Changing World

Ana Bachurova

After recent travels in Antarctica, UNEP-FI Energy Efficiency Lead Ana Bachurova, M.Sc., MBA shares learnings and insights into our current environmental realities and how practitioners in sustainable development can advance positive impacts.



Recent travels to our Earth's “Frozen Continent" offered me a new, profound source of reflection. Despite over 20 years’ of studying and working on international environmental topics, being “at the end of the world” made me realize how little we know about our planet and yet how much we have an impact on it.


Last month, I spent 11 days on one of the most extraordinary journeys of my life – Antarctica: Discovery and Learning Voyage with Oceanwide Expeditions (member of IAATO – The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators). My trip was inspired by my mom’s adventurous spirit and fuelled by my own curiosity. The result: an experience that left me in awe.


Our expedition area was to the west side of the Antarctic Peninsula, with the southernmost position next to Vernadsky Station at 65°14.45’S / 064°15.2’W. We got to explore and experience the region through daily Zodiac boat cruises and shore landings. The expedition's “Rule #1" was to respect rigorous biosecurity measures to protect the pristine Antarctic environment and maintain its ecological integrity. Clothing, boots, and gear underwent meticulous inspections to remove any potential contaminants. On the ground, we could not sit, kneel, nor touch anything. “Rule #2" was to stay away from and give way to wildlife, of which were often inquisitive and seemingly confused penguins. Only once, in a carefully chosen spot without wildlife, did we get a break from these restrictions and were able to embrace our childlike joy of Antarctica — who knew adults could be so keen on snowball fighting, snowman building, and even testing their grit with a dip into the icy 1°C waters.


The stunning landscapes, the undisturbed wildlife sounds, and the sheer vastness of Antarctica are simply humbling. Though beyond the adventure and the beauty we experienced, this journey deepened my understanding of our planet’s fragile ecosystems. If I must choose one word to summarize the critical lesson I came away with, it is interconnectedness. The warming oceans, the accelerating ice melting, the presence of microplastics in one of the most remote places on Earth — these changes are not caused by local activity on the icy continent of our South Pole. We can all agree on that.



The fragile Antarctic ecosystem


Antarctica’s ecosystem operates in a delicate balance, which is increasingly disrupted by the forces beyond its borders. Take as an example the natural mixing pattern of the warmer sub-Antarctic waters with the colder Southern Ocean, creating a dynamic nutrient-rich environment that supports an abundance of marine life — from krill to fish to large marine mammals.


As global temperatures rise due to climate change, the warmer ocean temperatures push the boundaries of the sub-Antarctic waters southward. At the same time, there is more of the warmer (i.e., lighter) waters sitting on top of colder (i.e., denser) waters, disrupting the ocean’s natural stratification, which reduces the upwelling of nutrient-rich waters from the deep ocean. At the same time, warmer waters accelerate the rate of melting of ice sheets and glaciers, introducing fresh water into the Southern Ocean and further altering water density and circulation patterns.

Most of us do not see these irreversibly changing processes. By altering the natural mixing patterns, the ocean's nutrient flow is disrupted, posing risk to the entire marine ecosystem. This can have far-reaching consequences not only for biodiversity, but for many economies (especially those dependent on fisheries, tourism) and for global climate regulation.

 


Behind the curtain of the Thwaites Glacier


During our expedition, we learned about the Thwaites Glacier — also nicknamed the Doomsday Glacier due to its rapid melting and the implications for global sea levels. In climate conversations related to glaciers, we usually think of a slowly melting piece of ice. But Thwaites is more than just a melting block of ice. The glacier plays a critical role in holding back a much larger system. It practically acts like a cork, keeping masses of the West Antarctic Ice Sheet behind it and preventing the Sheet from flowing into the ocean. As the Thwaites Glacier continues to melt and weaken, it risks unleashing a chain reaction, allowing massive amounts of inland ice to surge into the ocean, thus contributing to raising global sea levels. Scientists do not have a concrete timeline for this, but evidence shows that the Thwaites Glacier ice-ocean system is undergoing the largest changes of any ice-ocean system in Antarctica.


What makes this phenomenon elusive to grasp — or seemingly non-existent — is that much of this process is happening out of sight, beneath the ice and below the surface of the water. The hidden forces at work — warmer currents, structural fractures, and shifts in ice dynamics — are reshaping Antarctica in ways that can be challenging to measure, yet enormously consequential.

 


Pollution knows no borders


Antarctica is often seen as one of the Earth's last pristine wildernesses, yet even this seemingly untouched continent has not been spared from the reach of human pollution. Scientists have already confirmed the presence of microplastics there, both in surface waters and in deep-sea sediments, as well as in the Antarctic snow, and in the regurgitated food of penguins and seabirds. While some of this pollution can be traced back to local sources such as research stations and tourist vessels, most of it originates from elsewhere: industrial processes, consumer behaviors, and inadequate waste management practices happening far away and unconfined by geography.

 


A call for systemic solutions


Every action connects to a larger web of consequences, unlimited by geographical boundaries. In the context of intricate interconnectedness and the environmental emergencies we face, my message to those of us in this field of sustainability is to push for systemic solutions.


  • Think critically and look beyond your immediate “job description.” Sustainability is not a siloed discipline. Whether you work in corporate sustainability, policymaking, or conservation, take a step back and examine how your work fits into the bigger picture. Patagonia is a well-known example of embedding sustainability into a successful business model from day 1, but other brands can be acknowledged for evolving and re-thinking their practices. Adidas has progressively strengthened its environmental efforts across every stage of the supply chain. Levi’s introduced an innovative material made from worn-out jeans. (Don’t judge me on the selection of examples – it only reflects my personal preference of brands).


  • Engage with finance and policy: We need to bridge the gaps between environmental science and economic decision-making. Sustainable finance is not just a buzzword. Let’s move beyond compliance and actively engage in shaping investment decisions that prioritize long-term planetary health. The good news is that climate finance has demonstrated remarkable resilience and growth in the last five years, practically doubling even amid global crises — be it pandemic, economic, or conflict-driven — and reaching USD 1.46tn in 2022. This momentum reflects the recognition of sustainable investments as both a financial and strategic imperative.


  • Embrace collaboration: The greatest environmental challenges cannot be solved in isolation. Consult and engage with colleagues across industries, disciplines, and regions to come up with holistic strategies. You can take inspiration from the collaborative multistakeholder processes underpinning the development of green urban plans across the world – Singapore, Warsaw, Bogota, to name a few. 


As “sustainability professionals” (I know, it is a broad definition), our field of work is not a zero-sum game. On the contrary, we are the ones who can help create processes, products, and communities that benefit both people and the planet, minimizing adverse impacts. We have the tools; I hope we also have the will. And the influence.

About the Author:


Ana Bachurova, M.Sc., MBA
Energy Efficiency Lead, UNEP-FI

PHOTO: Ana Bachurova | Pléneau Island, 65°06.6’S / 064°04.0’W

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